When recovering from an injury, not all exercises are created equal—and neither are the rep-load prescriptions that go with them. Many climbers wonder why some movements are taken to failure while others are performed with 1-2 reps in reserve (RIR). The answer isn’t as simple as a universal rule—it depends on the exercise type, the goal of the movement, and how it fits into the overall training structure.
One of my clients, recovering from shoulder pain that has persisted for 1.5 years, recently asked this question:
"Why do I perform scapula push-ups to failure, but keep 1-2 reps in reserve in reverse fly's with dumbbells?"
It’s a great question that opens the door to a deeper discussion on exercise selection, load management, and rehabilitation strategy in climbing training.
Why Some Exercises Are Taken to Failure and Others Are Not
1. The Nature of the Exercise: Bodyweight vs. External Load
One key reason for prescribing failure in scapula push-ups but 1-2 RIR in reverse flys is that they are fundamentally different types of exercises:
Scapula push-ups are a bodyweight stability exercise, where failure is controlled and does not lead to excessive strain. Pushing to failure in this context ensures full activation of stabilizing muscles, helping to improve scapular control and endurance—which is critical for climbing.
Reverse fly´s with dumbbells, on the other hand, are a classic strength exercise with added weight. Going to failure in a loaded movement can create excessive fatigue or strain, increasing the risk of compensation patterns or irritation. Keeping 1-2 RIR allows for high-quality reps without unwanted overload.
Key Takeaway:
Bodyweight stability exercises (e.g., scapula push-ups) can often be pushed to failure for maximum activation.
Externally loaded strength exercises (e.g., reverse fly´s) are typically better with RIR to avoid unnecessary fatigue or compensatory movement patterns.
2. The Purpose of the Exercise in the Program
All rehabilitation and training plans must be individualized—no two climbers have the same injury history, strength levels, climbing background, or goals. Every exercise is prescribed with a purpose in mind, fitting into the broader structure of a climber’s training.
Scapula Push-Ups in This Client’s Plan:
Used before climbing to prime the stabilizers.
Encourages endurance and control in scapular movement.
Failure is a safe option in this case because fatigue does not compromise joint integrity.
Reverse Fly´s in This Client’s Plan:
Targets rhomboid and posterior shoulder strength in a controlled strength-building manner.
Helps correct previous muscular imbalances.
Keeping 1-2 RIR ensures the exercise is effective but not fatiguing before climbing.
Key Takeaway:
Exercises that serve as activation or endurance tools can be taken to failure safely.
Strength-focused movements are often performed with RIR to allow better recovery, maintain quality reps, and reduce fatigue before climbing.
3. Managing Fatigue in a Multi-Session Training Week
This client follows a structured two-part training approach:
A warm-up & shoulder stability program (2x/week)
A pull-up strength program (2x/week, with both volume & intensity sessions)
Because climbing and strength training already impose a significant load on the shoulders, prehab exercises must be carefully managed to avoid unnecessary fatigue.
Key Takeaway:
Training volume and fatigue management must be considered across all weekly sessions, not just one exercise in isolation.
Can We Generalize When to Use Failure vs. RIR?
The short answer: not really! Every prescription must be context-dependent and adjusted for the individual. However, some general principles can guide decision-making:
You may take exercises to failure when:
The exercise is bodyweight-based and targets endurance or stability.
Failure does not create excessive joint stress or loss of form.
The exercise is meant to prime muscles before activity, and the activity is tailored to this.
You may use RIR when:
The exercise involves external load (weights, bands, resistance machines).
The goal is building strength or hypertrophy rather than endurance.
There is fatigue accumulation from other climbing or training sessions that must be accounted for.
How This Approach Helps Climbers Rehab Smarter
This tailored rep-load approach ensures that rehab exercises:
- Target the right muscle groups in the right way.
- Support climbing performance instead of interfering with it.
- Reduce injury risk while maximizing recovery and adaptation.
Rehabilitation isn’t just about doing the right exercises—it’s about doing them with the right strategy based on load, volume, and fatigue management.
Finishing words: Individualization is Key
In reality I rarely ask my clients to go to failure in a specific exercise unless the purpose requires it and the climber is physically capable. In this specific scenario, I did not emphasize that the climber should go to failure in his warm-up, but he was allowed to if he was unable to complete the prescribed volume in the scapula push-up exercise.
Every climber has a unique injury history, strength levels, and training demands. The rep-load ratio is never a one-size-fits-all formula—it is adjusted based on:
🔹 Exercise type (bodyweight vs. external load).
🔹 Purpose in the program (stability, strength, endurance).
🔹 Fatigue management (weekly climbing & training volume).
By understanding why certain exercises go to failure while others stay within RIR, climbers can train smarter, recover better, and reduce injury risk—without sacrificing strength or performance.
Think About Your Own Training:
❓ Are you tracking how fatigue from your warm-up affects your climbing?
❓ Are you balancing endurance, stability, and strength effectively?
❓ Are you applying RIR or failure correctly for your exercises?